Category: Travel

My Top Highlight in each Country

This is a long time coming, and I’ve been meaning to publicly summarize my thoughts and consolidate my experiences on my journey. Since returning, so many people have reached out to me, expressed their curiosity, and asked me for advice. I’ve become a de facto Asia travel planner and role model for other women who want to travel solo as well (which makes me feel great, actually).

The number one question I’m asked is, “What was your favorite place you went to?” My answer is none of them— they were all my favorites. It’s an extremely hard question to answer, because each country was special to me in many different ways. There are highlights across the entire journey, of course.

Here are my top memories from each country (paired with my favorite photos as well) and why it is so meaningful to me. If there is something you absolutely must do or see in each of these countries, then this is my recommendation for what it must be.

India

I feel like I can’t answer this question very well because I’ve been to India so many times. My favorite memory is simply going to Chennai and spending time with my grandparents.

Nepal

Without a doubt, it’s the Everest Base Camp trek. I’ve written extensively about the trek (FAQ, Pre-trek, Days 1-7, Days 8-14) because it was so incredible and I recommend everyone do it. The entire experience is truly life changing and there is nothing more spectacular than seeing Mt. Everest in person and the entire Himalayan mountain range. The people you meet, the pain you fight through, the perseverance you gain, and the strength you find within yourself are all the more reason to do this. You discover a lot about yourself on this trek. Top moment of my life, if not just this trip.

Myanmar

Beautiful, serene, stunning Bagan. This place will take your breath away. Three days biking around Bagan is enough to enjoy the splendor of all the old temples and feel like you’ve truly stepped back in time. Catching the sunrise while watching hot air balloons rise above the plains in this still very untouched place is a magical experience. If I could go back and had more money to spend, I would absolutely pay for the $350 (per person!) hot air balloon ride.

Thailand

Even though I’ve been here before, it’s still Chiang Mai. There is something very spiritual about Chiang Mai. I always meet excellent people here and feel truly at home. I would move here in an instant. What made Chiang Mai so special this time around was the friend I met who made me realize how much I had changed, the monk who gave me perspective, and a single hike to a forest temple that made me realize how happy I am. These were pivotal moments for me in my journey.

Laos

This is a tough one, but I’m going with the Plain of Jars. This is an undoubtedly non-touristy area. I’ve written about the tragedy that occurred here, which I had no knowledge of prior to coming to Laos. Despite the amount of blood shed at the hands of the U.S. and continuing struggle the people of Laos face, they still go on. I’m glad to have finally learned about the Secret War.

Cambodia

Really I can’t decide for Cambodia. Angkor Wat and the Killing Fields were both humbling to see and learn about. Angkor Wat in Siem Reap was obviously majestic. The Killing Fields and the Prison in Phnom Penh were educational and critical to understanding Cambodia and its people.

The island of Koh Rong Samloem also stole my heart. I decided to skip Koh Rong, the party island, headed straight to its smaller sister island. I had no lodging or anything booked, but luckily a guy approached me as I got off the ferry and asked if I wanted to camp at the end of the island near their resort. Highly improvised but ended up being the best choice. The best things in life are unexpected. What followed was four days of hanging out, relaxing, meeting incredible people from all over the world, fresh fish BBQs, swimming in the clearest water, a stunning trek through the forest, and walking along the whitest sand. One night we decided to get into the water and everything began to sparkle around us. We sat there like kids playing around watching the bioluminescent plankton light up. Truly magical.

Vietnam

Many people skipped out on Sa Pa, the mountainous region in the northern most part of Vietnam where you can find the most stunning rice fields and the kindest people. Let me tell you— everyone who skipped out on Sa Pa made a huge mistake! The month I spent there traveling south to north was the best decision I made, despite the cold and bad weather I faced up north. I absolutely loved living in the villages of Sa Pa, eating with the local people, and hiking around the mountains. I even extended my stay because I loved it so much.

Malaysia

I wish I had spent more time in Malaysia because I did not get to fully experience it, but the Cameron Highlands was my favorite part of my 1.5 weeks there. I met my favorite people in Malaysia here and had such excellent conversations. The tea plantations are a dream to walk through. Not to mention, I had some of the best Indian food and strawberry scones I have ever had in my life here.

Philippines

Again, another place I needed more time in. The lack of transportation and 7,000 islands to explore did not help my very indecisive self. However, the entire island of Palawan is seriously stunning. The Big Lagoon is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to in the world. On top of that, when I finally allowed myself to have fun, Palawan was definitely the place to be— much better than Boracay which is just a ridiculous party destination. The little town of El Nido is a great place to meet people and find a group of friends. Everyone in the town knows each other. This is a place where you could get sucked in for sure…

Indonesia

This is the hardest one for me, but scuba diving in Flores on a live-aboard beats everything else I did in Indonesia (even all the incredible treks!). I spent 4 days living on a boat in the middle of the ocean with a few other people, waking up at 5:30am to get into the water by 6am for our first dive, followed by two more dives throughout the day. I have never seen more incredible, colorful, and diverse marine life and coral. It’s considered one of the best places to dive in the entire world, so I am ecstatic I had the chance to do this. Thankfully I got my advanced scuba diving certification before coming here (its required really), because the current is out of this world and occasionally frightening. Also, I will never forget that moment a manta ray just came out of the blue and swam right above my head. I stopped everything and just watched in awe. Majestic.

Singapore

Truth be told, I did not do much in Singapore. I did hardly anything touristy. Rather, I just ate a lot of food and walked around with my friend. But while I was here, I felt so independent, free, confident, and happy. I had learned everything I had wanted from this trip. I was exactly where I wanted to be.

September 25, 2016
Too Much Happy Water

Our second day in Sa Pa and our first morning, I wake up late and head down the rickety ladder to the table for breakfast. Michelle informs me that she’s just witnessed them killing a duck in the kitchen. I can see the blood on the floor. She decides that she no longer wants to kill a chicken or anything else, ever. Probably one of the cute ducks we had seen wandering around outside. I don’t want to think about which other cute animal we have eaten already, or which one we will be eating later. It’s around this point I convince myself to go back to not eating red meat anymore.

The table is set up with many more pots and chopsticks this time, each also paired with a small shot glass. I think nothing of it, assuming it’s for something else other than alcohol, because that would be ridiculous at this hour. We learn that Chou’s husband works in the Sa Pa police force, and he’s invited a few of his cop friends to join for breakfast. Today is apparently a holiday, or rather, they all just decided to skip work. The men are friendly and talkative, but don’t speak any English.

I see the cooked duck dish in the middle of the table, and deliberately do not take it. I can see the hairs and bits of feathers still on it. I stick to the pancake, eggs, honey, and curry instead. Realizing I haven’t tried the duck yet, Chou take a large chunk and puts it in my bowl. Thanks, I say meekly and force a smile. I look at it and attempt bite. Nope, there’s no way this is happening. Back it goes into the bowl, trying to hide it with some pancake.

At some point, Chou’s father in law grabs our shot glasses and scoops some rice whisky into them. “Happy water!” he says, smiling widely. “Happy water….?” Michelle and I say, looking at each other. “It’s like 9:30am.” I guess it’s going to be that kind of morning. Why not! We’re in Sa Pa! This is what they do!

We take our first round of shots. Not prepared at all, I chase with egg. That was tough. I think we’re done there, but I am very, VERY wrong. The men pour another round for everyone. Again! And again… and again. “Dude it’s only 10am and we’re 5 shots in.” They can’t pour anymore, no way.

Chou’s husband looks at me and hands over a bowl of red stuff to me. “What’s this?” I ask. Chou responds, “duck blood!” I think I slightly vomit in my mouth, but again, I can’t refuse, so I take a minuscule scoop of it. The mixture of duck blood and rice whisky in my mouth is not the most pleasant experience. I think my opinion of it is plain on my face and everyone around the table laughs. What’s next? More shots!

6th shot…9th shot. Before each shot of happy of water, a different person says a toast. We drink, and say “Mot, hai, bi, yo!!!” their version of Cheers! The toaster shakes hands with everyone. It’s 10:30am or so and we’re also 11 shots in. I am sufficiently drunk. The men’s faces are glowing bright red. Everyone is laughing merrily and grandpa has just taken a rip out of a huge bong. “Happy water makes you happy!” they say. Yep, it really does.

11am. We don’t want to be rude so we don’t refuse when they pour us our shots and force more food into our bowls. It has to stop soon. It’s nearly our turn to make a toast though. 12, 13… Michelle makes her toast, thanking everyone for their hospitality and welcoming us into their homes. 14th shot, I go, and I’m not even sure what I said.

I think I look like I’m about to regurgitate the happy water, because we ask if we can stop, and she says it’s fine. We sit outside in the heat, totally dizzy and drunk, and making the stupidest comments. I’m taking selfies of us in our drunken stupor. Chou comes outside saying, “Okay! Let’s get ready to trek to my parent’s village.” Michelle and I look at each other in disbelief. I could have fallen asleep on the ground right then and there. I laugh, deciding this can only be fun! “Whatever, it will be fine!”

Trekking for 4 hours in very intense heat in the mountains after 14 shots of rice whisky is not something I would do usually, but it was surprisingly fine. I somehow also managed to get some great photos even in my state. I would have failed any drinking test, as I was definitely not walking in a straight line at all. But hey, I guess they call it happy water for a reason, it really does make you happy!

We finally get to Chou’s parent’s home, where her brother is already eating with a bunch of his friends. He looks extremely young, not more than 16, and he already has a wife and baby. They tell us to sit down and eat, and at this point we are completely exhausted, hungry, and dehydrated, so we collapse on to the bench. Chou’s brother’s young wife asks us, “happy water?” We laugh in disbelief, shaking our heads. No, no more happy water for a very, very long time.

April 9, 2016
Sa Pa: My Favorite Place in Vietnam

During the entire month I spent in Vietnam, this was my favorite place, by far. Sa Pa was beautiful, authentic, and inspirational. I felt so invigorated and alive while I was there. I joined my friend Michelle who I had been traveling with for a while on a bus to Sa Pa. As we got away from the misty and smog-ridden city of Hanoi and towards the sunny fresh aired Sa Pa, my move instantly lifted. The minute I laid my eyes on the rice terraces, I could not stop grinning. I felt warm and happy inside. Maybe it was the sunshine, lush green mountains, and happy villagers that reminded me of trekking in the Himalayas, where I really found my happy place. Somehow, I felt at home.

Most people arrange for a multi-day trek beforehand at their hostel (which is much more expensive), but Michelle and I decided to just arrive in Sa Pa and figure it out from there. Multiple people told us that you could just take the bus to Sa Pa, and upon arrival, tons of little village women would be waiting of you saying “homestay, homestay!” Turns out they were 100% correct. As our bus pulled up in Sa Pa town, I peered out the window to see the local village women dressed in traditional outfits waiting for us. I waved at one of the ladies who had the biggest smile on her face.

I got off the bus and Michelle was already speaking to the lady with the smile. She was glowing! Her laugh was precious. She introduced herself as Sah, of the H’mong people, shoving a map in my hands indicating to us where her village is and the treks we could do. Sah was accompanied by her friend, Chou (or Chelsea, she said her English name was), who had the cutest baby hanging on her back. Chou had a big smile with a gold tooth that made me love her even more. Her little baby, Lily, who is by far the sweetest child I have ever met in my life, is ultimately what convinced us to go with these women to their village.

We head first to the local market to get some food, and we see many other backpackers with their homestay hosts. We’re the only ones who are not in a big group, and immediately we are glad we made the choice not to book something beforehand. Our experience was going to be much more intimate and authentic. Sah and Chou are chatting and laughing with the other local women, and we could not be happier ourselves. I take in their outfits, which are all unique and so colorful. They wear big earrings and their hair is wrapped up with combs and pins in them. They seem so genuinely happy.

Chou takes her motorbike home with her husband and our huge backpacks, and we head on a 4 hour trek to her village with Sah. She teaches us about the different villages, cultures, and local customs. This seems to always be the case, but as I’m walking I can’t help but feel like I’m in Lord of the Rings (really I just to be an elf in Lord of the Rings). The mountains are lush and green, huge rocks and trees dot the scene. Baby animals and their moms are running around us, chickens, pigs, goats, and cows. I have to stop every 5 minutes to take pictures of the stunning view. The rice terraces are not full of rice, but instead water. Not the picture I had in mind, but still stunning. The water reflects off the ground making the entire view sparkle. We pass no other foreigners, which is exactly what we wanted. We pass by the local children who look at us curiously, always jumping up to wave and say hello.

When we arrive at Chou’s home around 5pm, we are disappointed to find a few other foreigners. We thought we would be alone. That’s the hypocritical thing about being a tourist yourself— you don’t want any other tourists there. We sit around, waiting for Chou to come back. More tourists arrive, staying in the little wooden house next to ours. Our moods sour. This was not the experience I wanted. This was why I had avoided homestays my entire trip, because I did not want a fake commercialized village experience like I had before in Thailand in 2015.

Sah is nowhere to be found, and we can’t help but feel a bit abandoned. We go to the kitchen where we find the hosts cooking, asking if we can help. They say no, so we force ourselves to socialize with the 13 other tourists who are there, not happy about it at all. Our disappoint is written all over our faces. We wonder where Sah and Chou are, and if this entire experience is going to be interacting with the tourists and not them. “If I wanted to hang out with other foreigners, I could have just stayed in the hostel back in Hanoi,” Michelle says. I could not agree more. Don’t get me wrong, I love meeting and socializing with people, but I did not want to be a part of some fake commercialized village package. It seems weirdly imperialistic to me.

Just when I decide to only stay for 2 nights instead, Sah comes back, telling Michelle and I to join them for dinner. Wait, really!? We’re not staying or eating or doing anything with any of these other people? Nope. It’s just going to be the two of us living with Chou’s entire family and Sah. I feel victorious. The two of us head inside to see the table set up with little bowls and chopsticks, and pots of vegetables and meat. We sit on the bench with Chou, her husband, mother in law and father in law, Sah, and Chou’s three children. We’re ecstatic. The food is amazing. Everyone is so friendly. We learn so much about Chou’s family and the H’mong people. Their lifestyle, the language… it’s all so fascinating that these tribes manage to still stay true to traditions that are centuries old. Technology has been introduced in their lives, but for the most part, their daily tasks and practices have remained the same.

I stay in their little wooden house for a total of three days, switching to Sah’s house on the fourth day. Three generations live in a single household, babies, parents, and grandparents. I had no idea how we were going to fit in these tiny houses with so many people, but they made it work. They were so kind and wanted to make us as comfortable as possible. It surprised me to discover that Sah is only 35, and she’s already a grandmother. Her eldest daughter who is 17 already has a daughter. But in Sa Pa, this is normal. The H’mong people get married young and have children as soon as possible. By 16, a girl is married off and she leaves her village into her husband’s home. We learn that Chou is only 27, and she already has 3 kids! It’s no doubt that the women here are strong and resilient. They take care of the family, trek through the mountains, cook, raise their children, farm… they impressed me much more than the men.

We spent the next few days trekking around the mountains. The scenery was stunning and the villages were charming. The outfits different women wore changed depending on the tribe they came from. The H’mong, Xa, and Xe people all live in the Sa Pa region, but still had completely different customs, language, and clothing. It all seemed so simple and everyone seemed so happy. I compared the ridiculous amounts of clothing I had at home to the same outfit Sah and Chou wore everyday. Sah bought herself a shirt on one of the days and I realized this was a special moment for her. All they had in their homes were a few beds, tools for their crafts, a table and some benches, pots and pans for cooking. They lived only with the essentials, because they did not have any money for frivolous things. My apartment back home was full of stuff that I never even used. Things I don’t really need. I felt so humbled while living with them, learning that you don’t need very much to be happy.

April 7, 2016
Coastal Cambodia

I hate to say it, but Cambodia was not my favorite country. On a scale from 1 to 10, it was barely a 6. Not great, not bad. Just okay. Some countries just don’t appeal to me, for whatever reason. Southern Cambodia was really the only part I enjoyed. The rest of Cambodia was lackluster for me, and to be honest, I could have spent less than a week there instead of the two weeks that I idled around. Maybe it was the food, the culture, the people… who knows. But Cambodia as a whole didn’t have enough ‘oomph’ for me. Luckily the south was my saving grace.

Kep

Kep, a small fishing town in the south, was a pleasant surprise. I was staying in Kampot, a town which was really giving me nothing, and decided to take escape to Kep, about 30 minutes away. The only thing I knew about the area was its crab speciality, so after wandering around looking at French ruins and the beach, I made my way over to the crab market. This was definitely the liveliest part of town, with people everywhere grabbing at squids, shrimp, and octopi for sale. Huge bags of salt, pepper, and dried shrimp sat around. The smells were overwhelming— in a good way. I was really hungry, but had no idea how to even make a purchase or get some cooked crab for myself. Noticing my confusion, a local woman pointed at a huge crate of crabs that’s being emptied out, making an eating motion with her hands. I nod excitedly. She says “1 liter,” and I say yes, not even knowing how much crab that exactly it is. It’s a lot.

One of the women starts dragging a crate full of crabs from the ocean to the dock. That is exactly how fresh these crabs are. I trade her about $8 for my liter of crab and take it the next woman, who cleans them up for me. Then on to the next lady, who cuts them all up.

My crab finally makes its way over to a man who takes care of the final step. In a huge wok, he steams up the crab, throwing in green onions, tons of local Kep pepper, and pounds of this amazing red sauce. I can’t describe to you how good this crab was. The entire experience contributed to how wonderful it was— from ocean to table, in less than 10 minutes. The whole farm to table concept back home has nothing on this.

I was nearly late for my bus back to Kampot from Kep because I was still eating (nothing new), so I run over to the bus stop, only to find the bus hasn’t arrived yet. Instead are a ton of Cambodian tuk tuk drivers sitting around listening to loud American hip hop. I am so into this, and I sit in the tuk tuk with them, chatting them up and taking selfies. By the time the bus arrives about an hour later, I’ve learned all about their favorite songs, children’s names, and life stories. I say this over and over again, but things always work out. It’s always a better experience when the bus doesn’t show up.

Koh Rong Samolem

I had heard terrible things about Sihanoukville in Cambodia, so I decided to just skip the grimey town and head straight for the islands. Multiple people advised me to just go to the small island, Koh Rong Samolem, instead of the party island, Koh Rong. Seeking isolation and relaxation instead, I heed their advice, arriving on the island hoping to find a place to stay. Initially I was looking for a hostel, but this island really had nothing. I run into an Australian guy working at the end of the island called Dolphin Bay, who convinces me to just camp on the beach. I think why not, camping on the beach in Cambodia sounds like an experience. Luckily, I’m not disappointed!

I’ll be honest, one of my reasons for coming to Koh Rong Samolem was to find bioluminescent plankton. I’d seen them once before in Point Reyes in the sand, but I’d never seen them in the water. I wanted to swim and be surrounded by glowing sparkling light! At night, I head into the water with my friend until we find an area that is isolated from the light. We plop down into the water, waving our hands around making as much motion as possible. At first, there’s nothing, and then it’s everywhere. There’s something about light up organisms that makes you feel like a kid again. It’s just pure magic. We sit there for an hour, stupidly splashing around, completely entranced in the sparkles of light.

The island was the perfect place to get away from it all and just detox for a bit. No wifi, no people, no noise. Just the stars and the ocean. The people at Dolphin Bay were remarkable, and in the 4 days I spent there it felt like we had become a little family. I can see why for some people days turn into weeks, and weeks into months. It’s hard to leave the slow and easy island life. Puppies, babies, cocktails, the softest sand, and a tent on the beach. What else do you need?

March 20, 2016
Cambodia’s Dark Past

I dreaded this day, but I knew it was something I had to do. The killing fields, genocide museum, and the prison were hard to visit, but it was necessary. Only from learning about the past can we prevent history from repeating itself.

I went with a group of people to the killing fields first, which were wonderfully paired with a very well-developed audio guide. It was slightly eerie to know that underneath the ground I was walking on were hundreds of bodies of innocent Cambodians who had been slaughtered during the genocide. Not a good feeling at all.

By far the worst of it was the killing tree. Children would be smashed against the tree and then thrown into the nearby pit. I don’t understand what kind of person would be able to do this. A few of the leaders of the genocide who are alive and have been captured don’t admit to this crime. Absolute insanity.

Graves of those without heads, graves of soldiers, graves of children… it goes on and on. The Cambodian government has chosen to leave many of these graves alone. No one was smiling as they walked around peering into the graves.

There were legitimately bones and shards of clothing on the ground, clearly visible.

It didn’t fully hit me until walking into the memorial monument in the middle of the killing fields. Inside were the skulls of hundreds of Cambodians who died. You could see holes and cracks in all of their skulls, indicating exactly how they died.

This entire experience was extremely depressing and it only got worse once we went to the prison. Walking throughout the prison, all I could see were the faces of those who had been imprisoned and senselessly tortured. Literally. They have huge posters with the pictures of those who were killed at the prison. Identification pictures were taken when someone was brought to the prison. I was shocked by just how many there were. Oftentimes the ‘before’ photos were paired with an ‘after’ photo of the person: malnourished, bloody, and dead. A number placard hung around their necks. The children in photos stared back at me. Their faces were haunting. I wondered if they knew their fates.

It’s horrible to commit genocide against a group of people, but it is so much worse when its orchestrated by their own kin. I can’t believe that tragedies like this are still occurring and probably will happen again in the future.

March 16, 2016
Wannabe Lara Croft

It’s been grey and rainy in northern Vietnam, so I feel no desire to do anything but read, watch TV, sip on chai (I wish), and laze around. But, here I am finally writing a new post, catching up on the last month of traveling.

After nearly 3 weeks in Laos, I was really excited to head to Cambodia. I needed a change of scenery as I was getting bored and restless, which is absurd to think can actually happen while traveling, but it does. While on the bus to the 4,000 islands in Laos, I made friends with this bubbly girl from New York (who is also coincidentally a Theta) who was headed all the way to Siem Reap. Last minute, I decide to instead go all the way to Siem Reap with her. Ultimately ended up on the road for more than 24 hours, going though the worst scammy border patrol, with little sitting space. Definitely one of my worst long-term travel and border-crossing experiences. At least I had a friend to commiserate with.

Immediately the next morning I got on a bike to explore Angkor Wat, which was a hundred times larger and grander than I had expected. Only three temples were most memorable to me.

Angkor Thom

This temple was beautiful, covered with Buddha faces. The whole thing smelled wonderfully of bat poop.

Angkor Wat

The first time I saw Angkor Wat it was crazy packed and unbearable. I skipped it, and then headed back for sunrise the next morning. Along with about 500 other people crowded around lake, we watched as the sun rose over the pillars. The sheer number of people and flashes that were going off definitely detracted from the experience, but it was still nice. My friends and I decided to head into the temple before the crowds rushed in, which was absolutely the right thing to do. It was so quiet and peaceful inside. We climbed around the temple watching the sun rise completely. Now I was actually in awe of its beauty. I was able to capture one of my favorite pictures of all time now, a trio of monks walking around the serene Angkor Wat.

Ta Prohm

Okay, the Tomb Raider temple was definitely my favorite. The trees growing over the complex made it feel like a true forest temple. A relic of the past. I got a lovely stranger to take a bunch of photos of me as I paraded around posing.

So, this might be an unpopular opinion, but…

I prefer Bagan to Angkor Wat.

I wasn’t as impressed with Angkor Wat as I expected to be. There! I said it. I think the number of people there just bothered me. I wondered what it must have been like 10 or 20 years ago, when no one was visiting Angkor Wat. However, it was still beautiful. During the two days I was there, I definitely wished my family had been there to also see it. This is something they would have loved, since it is an ancient Hindu temple. The dancers and other carvings in the architecture were enchanting. The level of detail in all of the temples were very impressive.

March 15, 2016
Three Weeks in Laos

Laos offered much more than I expected. I intended on staying for maybe a week or so, but I stayed longer because I wanted to get off the beaten path. My general impressions: super friendly people, amazing sandwiches, the cutest children I’ve ever seen, amazing scenery, and an overall authentic country. Laos is what Thailand was 20-30 years ago. I hope it stays this way.

Huay Xai

My first destination in Laos was the border town of Huay Xai. Crossing the border was painless, but was an entire day of traveling by bus. Most people only come here to do the Gibbon Experience (a zip-lining and treehouse living activity which I skipped since I did not want to spend $200-300, though it seemed wonderful). Really nothing to see here, except a temple at the top of a hill.

Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is a UNESCO world heritage site with beautiful French colonial architecture and history. I was thrilled to have my first taste of real bread here, not that terrible packaged bread that tastes like air. Sandwiches! Baguettes! Almond croissants! Thank you French people for your bakeries and cuisine. I loved just walking around the town, going into temples and talking to monks, sitting at the cafes, walking along the Mekong river, and visiting the stunning waterfalls nearby. The Kuang Si waterfalls are absolutely worth the trip, as are the other ones. I’ve never seen a prettier waterfall in my life.

The market here was one of the best I’ve seen, and the all-you-can-eat vegetarian buffets for $2 were a delicious steal. I really miss my sandwich lady.

Nong Khiaw

Just a day before leaving Luang Prabang for Vang Vieng, I learned about this village town in the mountains of northern Laos. A group of people I had befriended were going, so I decided to join their caravan. Not many people go here, as it is off the typical backpacker route. It was so worth it. This little town had some of the most stunning scenery I had ever seen. Nestled between enormous mountains, Nong Khiaw is the perfect place to relax and enjoy nature. It doesn’t have much to do here except explore the villages in the countryside by bike, kayak, and hike. The viewpoint hike at sunset was a highlight of the trip, with a glorious view of the river winding through the mountains. Sidenote, the Indian restaurant here had the best chai I’ve ever had in my life.

On the second day, the six of us took motorcycles and drove through the countryside. Instead of doing an organized, commercialized tour, we found and explored the villages ourselves. This was so much better and gave us a much more authentic experience. We stumbled upon a New Year’s party where the villagers were celebrating with music, drinking, dancing and delicious food. Of course, we joined the festivities. They continued to push Laolao, the local rice whisky, and BeerLao in our hands. One Laotian man was very keen on dancing with me, which consisted of walking in a circle, slowly moving your hands. They would be shocked if they saw us back home. The kids were absolutely fascinated with us, always saying hello and following us around. The children in Laos are the cutest I’ve ever seen. So sweet, so happy.

Phonsavan

I’ve written an entire blog post on the Secret War and the Plain of Jars in Phonsavan, which was what took me to Eastern Laos. Again, another town off the beaten path. The area was not as pretty as Nong Khiaw or Luang Prabang, but it was beautiful in a different way. War torn, dusty, and very industrial. The land reminded me so much of California, I felt like I was transported back home.

There were so few tourists in this town. My friend and I got the chance to play Snooker with the locals, which took a while to learn but we got the hang of it. MUCH harder than pool. It was definitely the local activity everyone participated in, with lots of BeerLao. None of them spoke English, and we spoke zero Lao, so it was fun trying to communicate with them with broken sentences, hand gestures, and Google translate.

Vang Vieng

Vang Vieng… beautiful scenery, amazing caves, and adventurous treks, but most travelers don’t come here for that reason. Infamous for drunk tubing down the river, Sakura Bar bro tanks, and happy pizzas, Vang Vieng has developed a huge backpacker party reputation. It’s definitely a problem and I find it very disrespectful. There are signs telling people not to roam around shirtless and in bikinis, but people don’t follow the rules. Many people have died in the past tubing down the river because they got irresponsibly drunk, forcing the town to shut down the majority of the bars. I’ll be honest, I partied one night— it was fun— but I could do no more than that. I didn’t even go tubing, which is the only reason some people even go. Instead I grabbed a bike on two of my days there and explored the outskirts myself. I found a couple caves that were just dazzling and jumped off a tree into an aquamarine lagoon (this was way scarier than I expected, and I stood there paralyzed in fear while a million Chinese tourists were chanting at me to jump). I topped off my stay here with a hot air balloon ride that took me high above the limestone mountains.

Vientiane

The capitol of Laos, but not much to see here. The market and river were nice, but the highlight was really the COPE center. I spent a little more time here just so I could sit and do work, before I headed off to the 4000 islands (which I didn’t end up doing). From here I headed straight to Siem Reap in Cambodia, because the 4000 islands didn’t seem worth the time in the end.

February 21, 2016
The Secret War

We need to talk about Laos.

To not know about the Secret War, which was a crime against humanity, is truly a disservice to the people of Laos. This country is beautiful, full of people who are genuinely happy and grateful for what they have even in the midst of such devastation and pain. Despite what they have dealt with, they still welcome us with warm smiles.

I had no idea what happened in Laos. I thought I knew the history of our most recent American wars fairly in-depth, having taken extremely rigorous human rights, world, and U.S. history courses. But no, I had no idea of the tragedy that happened here for not a few years, but 9 years total.

During the Vietnam War, Laos was also dealing with its own civil war. Secretly, the American CIA was supporting the Royal Lao Government against the Communist group, Pathet Lao. So, the U.S. bombed Laos for nine years— illegally and covertly, since Laos was designated a neutral country by the 1961 Geneva Accord. Regardless, the U.S. bombed Northern Laos to attack the communists and bombed the south to disrupt the Ho Chi Minh Trail. All of this was kept a secret from not only the American public, but also Congress.

Because of these unjust actions, Laos is the most heavily bombed country in the world:

“From 1964 to 1973, the U.S. dropped more than two million tons of ordnance on Laos during 580,000 bombing missions—equal to a planeload of bombs every 8 minutes, 24-hours a day, for 9 years – making Laos the most heavily bombed country per capita in history.”

For what reason? Like all reckless violence, none really. Their homes were destroyed and villages annihilated. They were sprayed with Agent Orange, a poisonous chemical herbicide. They were forced to hide in caves for years. What’s tragic is the aftermath the people of Laos are now forced to deal with.

A third of the bombs dropped in those nine years went undetonated. As a result, around 80 million bombs still continue to maim and kill the people of Laos everyday.

Laos is contaminated with millions of unexploded ordnance (UXO), which are risky, expensive, and difficult to get rid of. Thousands of people are dying because of them, and many more are injured. It happens randomly and unintentionally. Children find ‘bombies’ that came from cluster bombs littered on the ground, thinking its a ball they can throw around. A farmer or builder will be digging in the ground. Others try to use them for the gunpowder or high quality metal. There goes another life, a lost arm or leg, someone’s eyesight. These people are in constant threat of being blown up.

Imagine being a parent who is fearful for their child’s life all the time when they simply go outside to play.

The only reason I learned about all of this was because I wanted to visit the Plain of Jars, in the east of Laos. The Plain of Jars is like an Asian stonehenge: ancient megalithic stone figures all over the place, but no one knows where they came from, who made them, and why. They are thought to be funeral urns, as human bones have been found in a few. Some of them were taller than me. Some of them had lids. It was cool to walk around (some) of the plains…

I say some because it’s not safe to just walk around anywhere. The Plain of Jars also happens to be located in the area of Laos with the highest concentration of bombs. Some of the jars are destroyed and in pieces because of the bombs. Enormous bomb craters are everywhere. Remnants of war are everywhere: Russian tanks, makeshift uses of bombs as planets, spoons made from the metal. Bombs are a part of life here in Laos.

There are efforts to get rid of the bombs and help the victims. A non-profit organization, Mines Advisory Group (MAG) works extensively in Laos to clear the land of UXOs, but the process is slow and dangerous. It will take decades to get rid of all the bombs. You can see areas that have been marked clear with stone plaques on the ground with MAG initials. At one point my friend and I wandered off the designated areas to find more jars. Walking back, I was looking at my feet the entire time. I’ll admit, I was a little afraid to be walking around in uncleared areas. I can’t imagine living in fear like that all the time.

In Vientiane, the capitol of Laos, I visited the COPE center. COPE is another non-profit created to provide UXO survivors with support, providing rehabilitation services and prosthetics. While I was there, my heart felt so heavy. It was amazing to learn about so many stories of people with debilitating injuries who are managing to rebuild their lives with the help of COPE.

Just recently I’ve learned that an international treaty, the Convention on Cluster Munitions, was created to ban the use of cluster bombs. More than 100 countries have signed or ratified the treaty since its inception in 2008.

One of the countries that still refuses to sign or ratify the treaty? The United States.

It’s unfortunate that most people who visit Laos never learn this dark history. Most travelers visit the UNESCO world heritage site, Luang Prabang and the backpacker party paradise, Vang Vieng. But there’s so much more to Laos than those two destinations. I’m very glad I made it out to Phonsavan, because it was worth the extra long bus rides to see the real Laos—not through a pair of rose-colored glasses. I only hope one day Laos is able to fully recover from the ravages of war.

February 19, 2016
Chiang Mai’s Hidden Gems

I can’t stop talking about Chiang Mai!!! I love it. I spent nearly two weeks in the city but I easily could have spent the entire month there. One day I’ll live there. I had already done all the touristy stuff during my last visit to Chiang Mai, so I made it a point to get out of the Old City and really explore the surrounding areas. It paid off, and I found four amazing areas around Chiang Mai that most people never get to. I’m going to be a good citizen and share these with the world.

The Sticky Waterfall

Otherwise known as the Bua Thong Waterfalls, these limestone waterfalls are so fun to spend a day at. A friend and I took a motorcycle out there, about an hour’s drive. We eventually found them after getting lost. There aren’t a lot of people around, unless a tour group comes by. There are three different levels to the waterfalls, but it’s best to start at the very bottom and walk all the way up to the top. So glad I made it out here, it was worth the long drive (and getting very lost). Lounging around on the waterfall while the water crashes down around you is a lovely feeling.

The Forest Temple

This temple in the forest, Wat Pha Lat, is hidden behind the Chiang Mai Zoo, way past the university. I walked all the way there, which took about two hours, but it was a great hike up. After walking past the zoo, there’s a sign that indicates the start of the monk’s path. It was maybe about a 30 minute hike up. The path was indicated by strips of orange cloth wrapped on the trees. There were only two other people there when I got to the temple, making it the most serene and peaceful temple I had ever been to. This was truly a very zen place, perfect for meditation. I took to writing in my journal on the rocks over the river as I look out at the killer view of Chiang Mai. The atmosphere was so tranquil and made you feel so at peace with life. Absolutely my favorite place in Chiang Mai now.

The Terracotta Garden

So, this is in the Old City, but on northeast side which most tourists don’t venture to. There’s a cafe here now, which makes it a great place to focus and do work. There are tons of broken terracotta statues around here which are amazing to photograph.

Wat Suan Dok

This temple is enormous and also doubles as a university for the monks. Tourists don’t usually venture to this part of Chiang Mai, which is only just north of the Old City. Monk Chat can also be found here. I found the most interesting part to be the white mausoleums, which contain the ashes of the royal family of Chiang Mai. This funeral ground is stunningly beautiful, especially in the evening when the light is perfect.

February 9, 2016
Monk Chat

I spent a long time in Chiang Mai and had the chance to explore the surrounding are moreso than I had before. I have always loved Chiang Mai, but this experience made me fall in love with it even more.

I learned about an opportunity to talk to monks and help them improve their English. This sounded fun and worthwhile to me, so I headed on over to Wat Suan Dok. The temple also doubles as a university (makes sense since it’s also right next to the Chiang Mai University) for the monks. As I was wandering around the temple trying to find the Monk Chat center, I suddenly saw these beautiful white structures. I eventually find Monk Chat, walking inside timidly not knowing what to expect. I see three monks sitting there, two of whom are already speaking to a German couple. I’m paired with the remaining monk, who looks about my age.

Seated across from him, I introduce myself.

O: “My name is Ottama.”

V: “I’m Vandana.”

O: “Van-da-na? Teach me how to say it correctly.”

This is a complete sidenote, but warranted: a person’s name is the sweetest thing someone can hear (thank you How to Win Friends and Influence People, for teaching me this, and subsequently now impressing everyone I meet that I remember their name). I try extremely hard now to remember someone’s name and pronounce it correctly. No one is bad at names. No, you are just lazy and don’t care enough to remember someone’s name. So, if you can remember my name or pronounce it correctly, or more unlikely, both, I will instantly like you.

Needless to say, Ottama was a master at this, so I immediately approved him as a buddy. He began to ask me questions in very good English, pausing every so often to search for the correct word.

O: “Where are you from?”

V: “America!”

O: “Oh! America! I want to go there!”

V: “I’m from San Francisco, California. You should come!”

O: “One day. I want to go to California first. I have friends in Texas and Ohio.”

V: “Really? What are they doing there?”

O: “Yes, they disrobed.”

V: “Disrobing?”

O: “My friend quit being a monk to pursue different studies at the university and now is working in America.”
I had no idea that this was possible. It seems obvious that one could quit being a monk, but the thought had never come across my mind. I assumed they were in it for life. I wondered why one would quit.

I learn that he’s from Myanmar, but came to Chiang Rai because the opportunity to learn English and complete his studies was better in Thailand. He is delighted to learn that I’ve been to Myanmar. I show him all my photos which brings a huge smile to his face.

We continue to discuss everything: his background, studying as a monk, traveling, music, TV, Mr. Bean…

V: “So, are you allowed to listen to music? What do you like?”

O: “Umm.. Taylor Swift, Maroon 5, Justin Bieber—”

V: “You like the Biebs?!”

O: “Yeah! Baby baby baby!!”

I am so surprised by this but I love it. And he doesn’t stop there.

O: “Also One Direction. Except now they only have four people!”

At this point I’m laughing so hard that he knows this fact and sort of cares. Yes, I know, Zayn left. It was a sad day for One Direction (#tbt to that time I saw One Direction in concert front row standing next to a 40 year old mom. It was awesome).

Though he’s allowed to listen to music, there’s so many other activities he can’t participate it. He is barred from playing any instruments, which I discover after telling him I love playing the piano. Monks can’t play any sports. They can only wear a specified 9 colors, but he wears primarily orange and brown as most do in Thailand. They must shave their heads. Their robes must cover all skin. Men and women can’t touch. They aren’t allowed to have any tattoos, save for the one he tattooed on himself as a boy— a picture of a leaf from the bodhi tree.

I ask him what his day is like.

“I wake up at 5am. Sometimes. Sometimes I am lazy and do not wake up for morning chant,” he says laughing and I do too. I’d probably do the same. Cheeky guy.

“Then we have alms ceremony. We get donations of food and money from the local people. Then we eat our morning meal. I have some classes and meditation. Sometimes there are prayers. We have the last meal of the day. Then I study or do Facebook.”

Hold on, you have a Facebook? He pulls out his smartphone to show me. I’m now regretting not friending him on Facebook. Of course monks have Facebooks.

I ask him if he has a favorite food. Their meals are simple and meager, the remainder of their food for the day coming from the donations during the alms ceremony.

“I don’t have favorite. In Buddhism you do not have favorites. We simply accept what we are given and I am happy with that. As a monk, we have two duties: meditation, and to learn and to teach.”

He comments that Americans are very curious. I ask what he means by this.

O: “Yeah! You are always asking why, why, why. We do not do that. We do not speak out.”

He explains that in Asia there is an ingrained fear of speaking out against authority and asking why. Those who questioned the king were killed. Those who questioned their teachers were hit. They were raised to believe that their superiors were always right, but Ottama admits that this is not true.

We get on the topic of cremation and death. I teach him the word ashes, which he writes down in his little notebook to remember for later. He learns the word pescatarian from me, because he’s a Buddhist vegetarian who sometimes cheats and has fish. He teaches me about the Pali language, which is the Buddhist language. As a boy, he wanted to learn this language. He saw the other novices and wanted to be like them. That is how he decided to become a monk.

Monk Chat was eye-opening for me. For some reason, I had a very simplistic view of all monks which was unfair and wrong. They just lead a different way of life, based on their faith and spirituality. I had an amazing time just learning from Ottama and laughing with him. The entire experience was so invigorating. Learning about their way of life and Buddhist ideology is incredibly interesting, so I try to talk to monks all the time now in every country whenever I visit temples. Monks—they’re just like us! Taking selfies, hooked on Facebook, and listen to T-Swift.

February 6, 2016