Category: Asia

  • Everest Base Camp: FAQ and Tips

    Everest Base Camp: FAQ and Tips

    Here are some random tips and answers to questions people have been asking me regarding the Everest Base Camp trek that are important to note! You do not need to go through an agency. Keep in mind this was all organized independently by me and my group during low season, without a porter and guide, which brings the price down significantly.


    Cost: A complete breakdown of costs total per category for 14 days. Each day I budgeted between $20-30.

    • Two trekking permits (Nepal and National Park): $55
    • Flight roundtrip Kathmandu to Lukla: $308
    • Gear (sleeping bag, clothes, etc.): $150
    • Food and Water: $275
    • Lodging: $10 (free or up to $1 per day)
    • Guide: $30 ($15-20 per day usually, includes tip)
    • Shower: $5
    • TOTAL ~$830

    Food costs, lodging, gear, and misc. are all approximate. This could be much cheaper, notably without the flight, skimping on food and snacks, and doing it without a guide. That being said it would be much more expensive if you go during high season, have a guide, porter, take showers, do laundry, or simply trek for a longer amount of time.

    Altitude Pills: I did not take any altitude pills. I had a ton of Diamox pills, as most people do just in case, but I vowed to only take it if I felt any AMS symptoms. Even when I did start to feel bad, I still did not take them. My body dealt with it on my own. You can purchase them anywhere on the trek.

    Training: I did not train at all. If you’re an active person in average physical condition, you’ll be fine. There were people of all ages doing the trek. If I were to train, I would walk/run hills or uphill on a treadmill for maybe 1-2 hours a day. What you really need is strong mental fitness and willpower 🙂 Regardless of fitness ability, it will still be hard. You walk for around 5-8 hours a day. Plus, as the oxygen level starts to decrease, everything becomes exponentially more difficult.

    Lodging: We stayed in guest houses along the way. These were basic 1-2 bedroom rooms . You’re required to also have your meals there. Lodging is inexpensive during low season, ranging from free (if you eat there) to $2. Most are heated by dung stove (mm yum) in the common room. I slept with all my layers and thermals in the season sleeping with the blankets over me. It was still cold in the rooms but I got warm quickly once in my sleeping bag. In the spring and summer I believe it’s possible to tent camp.

    Water: Water is plentiful. We filled up our water bottles along the way for free at restaurants, lodges, and taps, but put an iodine/chlorine pill every time we did. In 30 minutes you can drink your water! Water bottles can be purchased so you don’t have to wait to drink them, but these can get to about $3.50 per bottle the higher you go.

    Bathrooms: Bathrooms leave much to be desired. Mostly squatters. Bring toilet paper everywhere. At one point I was in a little shack which simply had a hole in wooden slats. There was about a 10ft pile of poop underneath me and all I could do was hover and pray that I would not fall in.

    Time of Year/Weather: Go during the dry season, which is October – May. Monsoon season will be too cloudy and wet. October – November is high season as the weather is crystal clear. December – February is low season as it is the coldest part of the year. However, early December was still bearable and the weather was perfect during the day. We got sun every single day! There weren’t as many people and this was very ideal. During high season there are tons of people packed on to the trails in a queue. It is so much more enjoyable without the crowds. However, it would have been nice to not be freezing during the night. Trade offs. 

    Showers/Laundry: A hot shower costs between $3-6 in the mountains. This adds up. I showered once during the entire trek. No one else showers so there’s just no point. You will smell together, it’s not a big deal. You can do a freezing cold shower for free but when it’s already THAT cold, this is the last thing you want to do. Laundry can be done, but again, pricey. Hand washing laundry is possible and then you can dry by the dung stove.

    Clothes: Bring ONLY the essentials to keep your bag light. You will repeat all your clothing and wear the same thing nearly everyday. This was what I wore since it was so cold.

    • Solid hiking shoes (bring from home, though I bought in Kathmandu)
    • 1 fleece jacket
    • 1 down jacket
    • Two long sleeve hiking shirts
    • 1 yoga pant
    • 1 trekking pant
    • 1 thermal pants
    • 1 thermal long sleeve top
    • 6 pairs underwear
    • 3 sports bras
    • 2 pairs trekking socks
    • 1 pair wool socks
    • 1 beanie
    • 1 Buff convertible scarf/headband
    • 1 pair thick gloves
    • 1 sandal/house shoes to relax in
    • 1 hat
    • Sunglasses

    Gear: Other random essentials to bring.

    • Big backpack (40L or more probably)
    • Daypack
    • Quick dry towel
    • Sleeping bag (four or three season if it’s winter)
    • Headlamp and spare batteries
    • Tissue paper / baby wipes for your ghetto shower
    • Trekking poles (I didn’t use but many people do)
    • Nalgene water bottle
    • Headlamp
    • Sunscreen
    • Pain-relief meds
    • Water purification tablets
    • First aid kit
    • Camera
    • Phone
    • Kindle
    • External battery (this will save your life)
    • Journal and pen

    Meals: Tea houses have standard Dal Bhat, dumplings, and also western food. I got sick of the Asian food and just started eating pizza, omelettes, and toast. Food costs between $3-8, depending on how high you are.

    Snacks: Bring chocolate with you. Bring a billion Clif Bars. Bring nuts and almonds. Everything gets more and more expensive the higher you go since they have to carry everything up (there are no roads or cars here, someone is carrying EVERYTHING up on their back). A single chocolate bar got up to $3.50.

    Trekking partners: It’s easy to find others to trek with in the hostels around Kathmandu. Trekking with others is preferable in my opinion, so you have company and are motivated. It’s much more fun. Plus, it’s safer. I met people who were trekking alone who still had a wonderful time but would have preferred to do it with others. You can also definitely find people on the way to tag along with.

    Porter: Eh, you can do without it. At times I would have loved to have had someone to carry my bag, but I love that I did it without the help. My bag was around 9-11kg depending on what I was wearing. I wish it had been lighter. If you can’t carry that much on your back, then get a porter. Plus, getting a porter gives someone a job.

    Guide: You really don’t need one (unless you’re trekking alone, in which case I think you need a guide for safety purposes). We had a guide for 4 days towards the end and he proved to be very helpful in the end. It’s good to have someone who actually knows the language with you, just in case something happens. The latter part of the trek had unclear trails, due to crumbling rocks and snow. You can get a guide in Lukla, Kathmandu, or Namche.

    Permits: Two permits are required, one from the government which you can get in Kathmandu and then one from the national park which you get during the trek.

    Flight: The cheapest way to get a flight seems to be through a travel agency. Book the flight while in Kathmandu, and book an open return flight. The weather has to be perfect on your flying day, otherwise the flights will be very delayed, or worse, cancelled. Before arriving back in Lukla, call to confirm your flight or ask your teahouse to do so for you. When coming back, get to the airport an hour before your flight, and just wait. Cross your fingers that you’ll get to leave.

    Route: The 12 day route we did was the fastest and safest option with three acclimatization days (added an extra so our group would be back on track). Could be longer if you decide to add the Three Passes, Gokyo Lakes (which I wish I had done), etc. Get familiar with your route. Buy a map. Get this app. Know where you’re going to stop for the day and spend the night. You don’t want to reach somewhere in the dark.

    Day 1: Flight to Lukla (2,652m), Trek to Benkar

    Day 2: Trek to Namche Bazaar

    Day 3: Acclimatization day hike to Shyangboche

    Day 4: Trek to Debuche

    Day 5: Trek to Dingboche

    Day 6: Acclimatization day hike to the nearby mountain

    Day 7: Acclimatization day hike to Chukhung

    Day 8: Trek to Lobuche at (4,955m)

    Day 9: Trek to Gorak Shep (5,395m), go to Everest Base Camp

    Day 10: Climb Kalapattar, Trek to Pheriche

    Day 11: Trek to Namche Bazaar

    Day 12: Trek to Lukla

    Day 13: Fly Back to Kathmandu

    Wifi/Service/Charging: There is no reception in the mountains. There is reception at Base Camp, so you can make a call to your friends and family to tell them you made it! The last spot for free wifi is at Namche Bazaar. Some tea houses along the way have wifi that you can pay for. You have to pay to charge your electronics so bring external batteries. My camera battery lasted the entire time without a charge, though I did have to recharge my phone a few times.

    Trekking to Everest Base Camp was an amazing, unforgettable experience! Truly life-changing. Hopefully this information has been helpful, if not, I can answer questions directly.

  • Exploring Kathmandu

    Exploring Kathmandu

    I almost did not go to Nepal. With the fuel crisis due to the current blockade from India and the aftermath of the earthquake in April, it did not seem like the best time to go. I was unsure of its safety or ease of getting around. I am extremely glad I decided to still go because Nepal is a beautiful country that I now wish I had spent more time in and will definitely be returning to. I’ve been telling everyone I’ve met during my travels to go!

    IMG_4781

    IMG_4790

    Arriving in Kathmandu, the capital, this was the first real adventure of my trip. I had zero plans whatsoever, and I really intended on just figuring it out as I go. The first night I was incredibly disoriented, but I had my first introduction to a meal I was going to be eating a lot of: dal bhat, which is simply rice, lentils, cooked veggies, and papad. Needless to say I got sick of this really quick. Luckily I finally figured out the food situation in Nepal, meaning, not to eat Nepali food. This tiny hole in the wall Indian place had the best naan I’ve ever had in my life and on a little street corner was an amazing falafel wrap for barely over a dollar. Entire meals for $1-$3. I love Asia.

    IMG_4804

    Thamel is the ‘backpacker’ area where everyone pretty much stays. I decided to venture out to the Swyambunath, or monkey temple, with a fellow backpacker from Portland. There was an entrance fee for foreigners, but at this point I had been asked a dozen times if I was Nepali, so I used this to my advantage. The temple was perched on a hill overlooking the city which was surprisingly huge. There were a few cute monkeys here and there, when all of a sudden a deluge of 200 monkeys come running up the stairs. A stampede of monkeys is pretty cool until you remember you don’t have a rabies shot— and then you are terrified. Some of these monkeys were fighting pretty intensely and I was not about to get bitten. 

    IMG_4834

    Towards the end of my stay I visited Pashupatinath (there isn’t a lot to see in Kathmandu), which is a hugely famous Hindu Shiva temple. Again I played the “Ignore me I’m Nepali” card speaking terribly broken Hindi, and walked right in (it’s also restricted to Hindus only). This temple was incredibly old.. and incredibly dirty, unlike the immaculately clean Buddhist temples you see all over Southeast Asia. I stopped on the bridge to watch the cremations that were going on. I don’t really know how to describe seeing multiple open cremations at once, but it’s strange. I had never seen a cremation before, let alone a dead body. Admittedly I was morbidly curious. The smell of the burning bodies eventually made my stomach sick so I left shortly. For a while though, I watched a man who was lying over his father’s body (presumably) waiting for the cremation to begin. It was moving.

    Nepal in general reminds me of India. Sort of like an India lite. To my surprise it was extremely backpacker friendly and there were so many other solo travelers (since it is the mecca of trekking). I wish I had ventured west and gone to Pokhara or visited Chitwan National Park. This just means there will have to be a next time now!!

  • Welcome to India

    I’m bringing this 2005 Youtube song back.

    I love visiting my family in India! Here’s a snapshot of my trip here:

    We started off in Mumbai, where we stayed with my aunt and cousin.

    IMG_4503
    Mumbai walks at night

    IMG_4645

    It’s a scary time to travel with these terror attacks.We got in right after the Paris attacks on November 13, which were an echo of the November 26 Mumbai attacks in 2008. The world is on edge. India is on high alert and security at the airports is even more intense than usual. This is not helping my fear of flying. One of the days in Mumbai we decided to go have tea and snacks at Leopold Cafe, which was one of the first sites to be targeted with grenades and gunfire in 2008.

    After Mumbai we headed to Bangalore, where my grandparents live. Bangalore has changed so much and has truly become a very metropolitan city. It reminds me a lot of SF, because its a huge tech hub and people complain about the high rent (ha).

    IMG_4525
    Amma and Mamama looking very serious
    IMG_4533
    Ajja drinking coffee at my uncle’s house at the Air Force Base in Bangalore

    After Bangalore, we left for Chennai in Tamil Nadu. India is so divided and huge that going from one state to the next (Karnataka to Tamil Nadu) put my Aunt’s phone in roaming mode. She never even left the country. That being said, each state’s languages and cultures are completely different, so it really is as if you entered a new country. All south Indian languages sound the same to me anyway, so…

    IMG_4596

    IMG_4617
    Creeping on someone’s Mehndi ceremony

    We stayed at the Taj in Chennai, which was right on the beach. True ~luxury~. I was ridiculously happy to use their gym and indulge in the breakfast buffet. Mamama stole about 15 little pots from the buffet for no reason and also a huge dragonfruit which was most definitely only there for decoration and not meant to be eaten at all. She is me in 60 years. We also considered getting really dressed up and crashing the wedding that was happening at the hotel, but sadly we did not follow through with this. Next time.

    IMG_4679
    Typical Banyan tree

    IMG_4705

    IMG_4698
    The grounds of the Kalakshetra Foundation in Chennai

    We also visited the infamous Kalakshetra Foundation which is a college of the arts. Students can study all forms of art, including traditional Indian singing and dance. This was actually really cool and incredibly refreshing to see a college in India with students not pursuing engineering or medicine. Breaking expectations!

    IMG_4652
    Actual chaos in the sari stores

    IMG_4659

    The reason we were in Chennai was to buy everything for my sister’s Arangetram performance next year, which is her graduation debut as a solo dancer in Bharatnatyam. She is kind of a big deal. Saris, jewelry, decorations, etc etc etc. We could get her married off with the amount it is going to cost 😉 😉 😉 The sari stores were absolute chaos, since it is currently wedding season in India. All the brides come to get their wedding sarees, and their massive families come to approve. It was sort of cute to watch.

    IMG_4669
    Ajja’s brother– they look exactly the same
    IMG_4732
    This WAS a highway

    There also happened to me massive flooding while we were in Chennai. Streets were completely submerged underwater, as were parts of the highway. The already hectic roads were even more manic.

    I always eat so much good food while I’m here. Pav bhaji, paratha, an endless number of curries, fresh fish, masala chai, gobi manchurian, tender coconut, dosas for days, traditional Konkani food— the list goes on. Everyone in my family is an A+++++ cook. It’s a wonder I’m not getting fat.